Where To Stay, Eat, Drink, Shop, And What To Do In Deal

The Kent coast has had a revival in the past few years. Forget the kiss-me-quick tackiness that once was synonymous with the likes of Margate, as thanks to a bout of cool openings such as Angela's and sister Dory's seafood restaurants and the Turner Contemporary gallery, it's completely changed the appeal and outlook of the little town. Now, it's a hotspot for people looking for antiques, artwork, independent shops and great seafood. Yes, the arcades are still there, but have an endearing chintzy appeal instead.

While Whistsable has been a driving force in popularising Kent's coastline thanks to its thriving oyster business. Its fashionable status, along with Margate's, has begun to spread out along the coastline and one of the last remaining towns to be properly seen is Deal, slightly further south on the Kent coast. Though after a quick spin around the town, you'll wonder why it's taken so long, as it's full of pretty pastel coloured wonky Georgian townhouses and fisherman's cottages.

It's also a haven for small art galleries, its high street is practically entirely independent shops, from homewares to clothing, gifts to upcycled furniture, and it's pretty pebbled beach with Kent's only surviving leisure pier.

And at just 1.5 hours on the train from London, or a speedy 30-minute drive from Margate, it's an easy day trip or weekend away, so this is how to spend the perfect weekend in Deal.

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The boutique hotel The Rose

Set up by former style editor of Wallpaper magazine Alex Bagner and her husband, Christopher Hicks, the opening of The Rose is essentially what put Deal on the map. With eight rooms, Alex's expertise in interiors shines here, each with its vintage style. The focal theme in them all is color, with huge gemstone-toned headboards, ditsy prints, clashing patterns, vintage furniture, and chintzy bathrooms with one pale pink bathroom suite. It's right on the main high street and is just a two-minute walk to the beachfront.

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The rural farmhous Updown Farmhouse

This traditional 17th century Kentish farmhouse is just 15 minutes from Deal's town centre. Inside, there's plenty of bold colour like the bright orange living room, along with a real mix of antique furniture and contemporary artworks. Dinner is served either inside or in the converted cowshed which is now a covered pergola that forms the garden restaurant, which is draped with clambering foliage and pretty twinkling lights.

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The intimate dinner The Blue Pelican

This Japanese-inspired restaurant is also the work of The Rose owners, Alex Bagner and Christopher Hick. Though it's completely different in style, it has been given the same fabulous attention to the interiors with the orange and white checkerboard flooring, clashing cornflower blue seating and a modern take on the famous The Great Wave off Kanagawa covers an entire wall. There's also hints of a French cafe style with linen cafe-style curtains in the windows, simple gold lettering in the window and underneath worktops in the small bar area.

In the compact open plan kitchen is chef Luke Green, who has previously lived and worked in Japan, and creates spectacular food, especially for the affordable prices (which are even better for the £23 lunchtime set menu). Think dishes like smoked broth, pork katsu with sesame dressing or chicken tsukune. Sit at the chef table chairs to watch the experts in action.

The fish and chips Middle Street Fish Bar

The Middle Street Fish Bar is the best place for fish and chips in town, when you can get them, that is. It's only open half of the week for a few hours, and they staunchly keep to their set times, despite the queues that often form outside during the summer which are the clearest sign that you know it's worth it. Another key element to know is its cash only, so make sure you go prepared. Local's say it's the best spot for fish and chips on the Kent coast, so who are we to argue with that?

The wine bar Le Pinardier

Le Pinardier is the wine bar arm of a nearby small plates restaurant, Part of the Frog &, also on the main high street a few doors down. Painted bright red, its name comes from the French naval ships that transported wine in tanks during the second half of the 20th century.

As the name suggests, it specializes in French wines (and not just those from Bordeaux and Burgundy) but plenty of small producers, as well as a selection from around the world. Of course, it stocks local English wines from Tillingham in Rye, Nyetimber in West Sussex, and Canterbury's Barnsole vineyard. Order a sharing board of wrench cheese and meats, too. It's cozy and another hit with the locals, too.

The casual locals pub The Rose

Though it's a pub and often packed with locals (booking ahead is always a good idea), it's certainly not your average gastro pub fare on the menu. Neither are the interiors - instead there's panelled walls, sage velvet sofa seating, seventies wooden chairs and bright prints of roses and ice creams on the walls.

With Michelin-starred Portuguese chef Nuno Medes of his own restaurant Lisboeta and the celebrity-favoured Chiltern Firehouse fame at the helm, expect only good things to be dished up. These might include sea trout tartare, nasturtium leaf, fresh peas and broad beans or charred courgette, curry spices, courgette fritter and fresh cheese.

The small plates restaurant Cherub’s

One of the newest openings is Cherub's, found above the Bohemians pub on Beach Street. It's a relaxed bistro, drawing on a medley of European influence, a bit of offal and Expect dishes like ox tongue with celeriac remoulade, chicken pie, clams in fino sherry or skate wing with tartare sauce.

Dishes are served up on mis-matching vintage plates and the menu is designed around what's available from local producers' surplus stock, like The Black Pig butchers (below), so chef and owner Jakob Grant works backwards instead of coming up with first.

The butchers The Black Pig

One of the best butchers around, and not just in Kent, is slightly hidden down a little alleyway, but that doesn't mean it's not well known. You'll spot its little Victorian glass bay window and black sign, or its fairly large model pig outside the door first.

Opened in 2014, it's run by Deal born and bred Lizzy Douglas who is harking back to traditional methods while also making the butchers accessible. She supports small, local, family-run high welfare farms, sells traditional and rare breed meat, follows a nose to tail ethos and sausages etc are made on site. For her work, she's been awarded a prestigious BBC Food Programme's Food and Farming Award, and is the go-to butcher for plenty of chefs around the country, and closer to home like The Rose pub. For those around longer than a day, you can learn from the expert, as she runs butchery and bacon curing courses too.

The bouji grocery shop Arno & Co

With its candy striped awning bright blue shop front, it's hard to resist having a nose at Arno & Co, and then even harder to avoid the temptation to buy plenty of its well-chosen goodies in the little grocery shop. It's a food-lover's dream with bouji store cupboard essentials from pasatta to its freshly baked goods. As well as gift-worthy items like chocolate bars from independent chocolatiers, there's often kombucha, jam doughnuts, sourdough loaves, wine and plenty more. It's an essential stop off if you're planning a picnic on the beach.

Vintage furniture shop Mileage

On the main highstreet is Mileage, a vintage furniture store with plenty of upcycled furniture in fun bright colours. Expect plenty of timeless classic chairs that might have been reimagined in a fluorescent hue, or midcentury pieces, pretty lamps or dining room table and chair sets. Even if you don't leave with something, it provides plenty of inspiration for how to inject colour into your home. It wins extra points as often the owner's friendly little sausage dog is found roaming around the shop too.

The swim Deal beach and pier

Being right on the coast, a dip in the sea is practically a rite of passage. Unlike some of the sandy beaches along the coast, Deal is a pebbled beach but that doesn't mean it's not still great for a reinvigorating swim regardless of the time of year too, as there's always people getting in the sea.

Once you've warmed up post-dip, walk along the pier, which dates back to the 1950s. Though it doesn't have the glamour or charm of some of the south coast's other similar piers, it's the last remaining intact leisure pier still in Kent. At the end, there's Deal Pier Kitchen which often has locally caught lobster on the menu too, as well as a fishing deck for anglers.

The gallery Linden Hall Studio

One thing you'll notice on Deal high street is the number of shops selling local art and a number of small galleries. One just off the main highstreet to visit is Linden Hall Studio, a family run contemporary gallery. It's a bright and light space, showcasing art and sculptures often of British artists with 11 shows a year, as well as regular events like masterclasses and film screenings.

The castle Deal Castle

As one of the best remaining examples of a Tudor artillery castle, Deal Castle was built during Henry VIII's reign in the 16th century as a fortification against invasions from the French. From above, the shape is sort of a rose design, owing to the architectural design of six semi-circular bastions, which would have had a moat too. After climbing the stone steps to the top, the reward is glorious views across Deal beach. There's also passageways underground to explore too, which local smugglers are also thought to have used too.

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