How To Spend The Perfect Cozy Weekend In Zurich

A lakeside summer in Zurich is unparalleled, but Switzerland’s biggest city makes for an equally great getaway in the colder seasons. With the temperatures dropping and people slowly moving indoors, we find ourselves embraced by the wholesome cuisines of historic institutions amid buzzy wine bars and looking at world-class art collections and architecture.

If you make it into the city on a Friday, bundle up and join the Zurich locals early in the morning at the weekly farmer’s market on either Bürkliplatz or Helvetiaplatz. Whether you’re buying anything or not is secondary – many meet here to browse, chat, and afterward get their morning coffee. If you’re starting the day at Bürkliplatz, which is just by the lake, treat yourself to a pastry at a nearby artisan bakery John Baker, or head directly to iconic Confiserie Sprüngli for some breakfast or brunch treats.

Tsugi Bakery – Only open for a few months, micro-bakery Tsugi was quick to conquer the hearts of the local Zurich foodie scene. Their delicacies – croissant and bun variations, miso sesame sablés, or egg sandwiches – are all inspired by Japanese recipes, and together with a coffee or matcha, make for a perfect morning or afternoon treat.

If you’re lakeside and all fueled up, continue by exploring the historic city center and its local shopping gems. You can easily lose yourself in the cobblestone alleyways, but given the small size of the old town, you’ll always find your way out. Zurich cult brand En Soie is a good starting point: The family-run Maison is primarily known for its original ceramics and home textiles but offers a great selection of ready-to-wear, bag, and jewelry designs, too.

On the other side of the Limmat River, just a few steps away from each other, you’ll find the utterly charming specialty stores Schwarzenbach and Fabrikat. Whereas the former is a colonial coffee roastery with a vast selection of beans, teas, and delicacies, the latter specializes in stationery and handicraft utensils. Unleash your inner artist, reminisce about the times pre-World Wide Web, and make sure to buy gifts for your friends, too.

Never Stop Reading – Nestled in an old townhouse, this bookstore offers a great selection of architecture, art, design, and photography publications. A favorite of design aficionados, the only thing to look out for is the clock – you can easily spend hours in here.

Neumarkt 17 – Zurich’s most original interior store is a true wonder chamber – and worth a visit for its architecture alone. While the entrance is tiny and discreet, everything behind its doors is marvelous. Between the walls of an astonishingly complex floor plan, you’ll find a great amount of furniture classics – from B&B Italia to Vitra.

Opia – Behind the main station, on the newly built shopping mile Europaallee, Opia is a well-curated concept store offering handpicked womenswear, menswear, jewelry, and perfumes. On the racks, you’ll find the avant-garde designs of Comme des Garçons or newcomer brand Auralee; the table displays are full of creations from Completedworks or up-and-coming Swiss designer Yan Jiang Studio.

The iconic restaurant Kronenhalle is a must all year round, but especially cozy and beautiful in fall and winter. An institution that was once frequented by the likes of Yves Saint Laurent or Federico Fellini, there’s nothing in these rooms that doesn’t say «endlessly elegant.» Drinks at the Bar next door are just as mandatory as ordering one of the «Plats Tradition» – we’re talking «Zürcher Geschnetzeltes» and Rösti, Wiener Schnitzel or Entrecôte Café de Paris. Just leave a tiny bit of room for dessert: You can’t leave this place without having tasted the mousse au chocolat (with chantilly, of course!).

Gamper Bar & Restaurant in buzzy Kreis 4 is a contemporary and straightforward bistro with a great wine bar next door. The four-course menu changes frequently, but it is always a surprise – you never quite know what you’re in for, but in the best way possible. The dishes are typically minimalistic, yet with an unexpected twist: raw corn polenta with salad and truffle, gnocchi with eel emulsion, and herbs. Always start the night with a glass of natural wine and a few snack plates (bread with butter & anchovies!) at Gamper Bar next door.

Casa Ferlin – Eating at this family-owned Italian establishment is as good as it gets. Take the homemade, mixed ravioli for a starter, then opt for a grilled fish or the veal in lemon sauce. The service here is impeccable, and the decor is full of Italian-Venetian gems.

Coffee – The tiny neighborhood café only has a few tables, but they serve delicious specialty coffee, toasted banana bread with yogurt, and a small brunch menu on Saturdays. The eggs benedict on brioche bread are worth queuing for.

Alba Sourdough Pizza – Looking for something relaxed and easy? This fairly new spot in Kreis 3 makes its sourdough pizza and is always a fun place to be. Off the menu, which is partly permanent classics and partly seasonal creations, I highly recommend the Alba tartare with browned butter mayo, the diavola pizza, and the tiramisu for dessert.

La Stanza – At the Italian café bar just off Paradeplatz, Zurich lives up to its name as Switzerland’s financial capital. Here, it’s mostly men in tailored suits, debating over Espresso and a Cornetti before they’re off to work. Come for the atmosphere (highly dynamic), the coffee (strong), and the people-watching.

Lupo Bar – Some come for their Italian dishes, others for their negroni. But really, Lupo is a popular place all evening long. Located in buzzy Kreis 4, I recommend sitting by the bar soaking up the vibrant energy and ordering whatever your heart and tastebuds desire.

Rämistrasse gallery mile – Many of Zurich’s most relevant art galleries have settled down on Rämistrasse in between Kunsthaus and Bellevue. From Eva Presenhuber to Peter Kilchmann or Mai36, there’s plenty to explore within just a few steps. Take a peek inside the furniture galleries Angela Weber and Two Rooms, too – they both collect swoon-worthy vintage objects.

Löwenbräukunst Art Center - The concrete art center in the industrial Kreis 5 accommodates various contemporary art institutions and galleries – Kunsthalle, Migros Museum, Hauser & Wirth, Galerie Francesca Pia, among others. Check what’s on in advance, and start exploring.

Kunsthaus Zürich, which was extended with a grand new building by David Chipperfield in 2020, is the biggest art museum in the country and houses an incredible amount of prestigious artworks by both old masters and contemporary artists – Picasso, Monet, Hodler, Twombly, Warhol, you name it. It’s almost impossible to soak up all of the art in one go, so be sure to schedule enough time. For a bit of fuel in between, grab a coffee and a snack at Kunsthaus Bar, and don’t miss out on the well-curated museum shop, too.

Pavillon Le Corbusier – The architectural masterpiece completed in 1967 is the last building designed by Le Corbusier and his only building made of steel and glass. Standing right next to the shores of Lake Zurich, it makes for a lovely stop on a walk along the promenade and is a must for architecture aficionados.

Signau House & Garden - The boutique villa in the residential and chic area of Seefeld is an oasis of tranquility, and yet only a short walk from the city center. Housing nine beautifully designed rooms, a pavilion, a secluded garden, various salons, and a private cinema, it’s a great place to unwind after a long day of exploring.

Hotel Marktgasse – Nestled in the very heart of the old town, Hotel Marktgasse lets you experience the energy of Zurich from the inside out. The boutique hotel sits in between cobbled streets and historic landmarks, and any destination will be within walking distance. The 15th-century building was charmingly restored and also accommodated a Michelin-starred restaurant, Igniv by Andreas Caminada, downstairs.

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