A Guide To San Sebastian
Where to stay, eat and the best things to do in Spain’s mountainous Basque Country.
With its shell shaped bay dotted with navy and white striped beach chairs and a seafront lined with Belle Epoque buildings, San Sebastian feels like an elegant escape of times gone by. Not far from the French border, it shares a similar DNA to France’s West Coast, something emphasised by the lush green landscape and wild Atlantic that surrounds it. Known as Donostia in the local Basque language, it’s far from what you imagine when you conjure up images of the Spanish coast. In fact, the distinct Basque culture and language (an isolate, nothing like anything else spoken) is a big part of what makes coming here so interesting.
With the second most Michelin stars per capita in the world, it’s primarily food that has put San Sebastian on the international map. However, beyond the fine dining scene, the quality of restaurants across the board is very high whether you want to Pintxos hop (small bites served at the bar) in the old town or visit elegant wine bars in Gros. Between the eating and drinking, there’s of course the beach and the surfing as well as a crop of good walks, parks, museums and galleries.
What To Do
Head to the beach
Playa de la Concha, meaning shell beach, is a stunning crescent shape stretch of sand. Calm and sheltered by its shape, this is an excellent spot for swimming or families. On the other side of the city centre, in front of the Gros neighbourhood is Playa de la Zurriola, a wavy beach popular with surfers.
Soak up some culture
Check out the latest agenda of exhibitions, screenings and seminars at Tabakalera, a 90 year old tobacco factory turned cultural space offering, or head to San Telmo Museoa to understand more about Basque history and culture.
Spot the Chillida sculptures
Eduardo Chillida, San Sebastián’s biggest art export, has left his mark across the city. The three steel sculptures named El Peine del Viento (The Wind Comb) at the most western most point of San Sebastián’s bay is the most famous but others can be found via this map.
Take a stroll
San Sebastian’s main bay is flanked by two hills, Monte Igueldo and Monte Urgell. Both are worth walking up to achieve excellent viewpoints looking back over the beach and the city itself. At the top of Monte Igueldo there is an old-fashioned theme park while Monte Urgell has castle ruins (Castillo de la Mota). Parque de Cristina Enea, the city’s 23 acre park, is also a lovely space to spend some time.
Where To Eat
Fine dining
San Sebastian’s Michelin-starred addresses must be booked long in advance and it’s worth noting that some of these well-known spots are a little outside the city so require driving.
Akelarre: This three-star restaurant on the slopes of Mount Igueldo has fantastic sea views and offers inventive takes on classic Basque cooking.
Martin Berasategui: The super chef’s eponymous three star restaurant, 7km outside of San Sebastian.
Elkano: Known for its grilled fish and seafood, unlike most other Michelin starred establishments, this doesn’t offer a tasting menu format.
Mugaritz: 15 mins outside town amidst verdant nature, at this two star restaurant out-there dishes designed to your taste as opposed to a traditional menu.
Alameda: Manned by three brothers, the restaurant has held a Michelin star for over twenty years and is slightly more affordable than some of the others options.
Kokotxa: This one star restaurant in the heart of the old town specialises in the simple side of fine dining with local and seasonal ingredients as the star.
In Gros, the ‘new town’, which is less busy with tourists, try Zabaleta, Bodega Donostiarra or Bergara. Wherever you go, end up at La Vina for the burnt cheesecake.
Where to Stay
San Sebatsian’s grande dame has been welcoming guests since 1912 and is just as glamorous today as it ever was. You come here for the heritage and the most charming staff but return for riverside view and regal-feel bedrooms (think velvet drapes and marble bathrooms). Book here
Just outside the city centre (handily the hotel hires bikes), this tudor style building is housed in lovely relaxing gardens. Classically luxurious, lovely heritage details have been beautifully preserved from the stained glass windows to the marble floors and wood panelling. The comfortable rooms come with restored antique pieces and opulent details.
For a luxurious back-to-nature experience that’s a stone’s throw from San Sebastian, Amira Hotel & Spa is just the ticket. Set amongst the trees in the Miramón Forest, rooms come with floor-to-ceiling windows for an immersive feel. The rooftop pool, Foresta Wellness spa and gym, and farm-to-fork restaurant all enhance the wholesome and well-being feel.
For a restaurant-first hotel, San Sebastian is an obvious choice. Located right on the beach, if it’s a minimalist and modern approach to luxury you’re after, this is it. Much smaller than other Nobu hotels, it has a more boutique feel and all 17 rooms have sea views. There’s also a rooftop terrace, pool and, of course, a Nobu restaurant.
84 Rooms recommends: Where To Stay On The Costa Brava, and The 84 Rooms Guide To Formentera.