The 84 Rooms Guide To Formentera
What to do, where to eat, and stay on Ibiza's bohemian neighbour.
The first thing you’ll notice about Formentera is its turquoise water, turned a too-good-to-be-true hue thanks to the Posidonia seaweed that grows beneath it. On this tiny slither of an island - just over a mile wide at its narrowest - you are never far from the Mediterranean sea or a stretch of spectacular white sand. Dotted with pine trees, the odd lighthouse and a few small towns, it couldn’t be more different to the bright lights of Ibiza just a half hour ferry ride away.
Formentera’s lack of airport and petite proportions means that it has resisted mass development in line with the other Balericas. Discovered by the hippy crowd in the sixties and long seen as a refuge from Ibiza, Formentera still has a bohemian feel to it - nothing happens at a rapid pace here and that’s what calls people back. While there are no big name resorts or restaurants, in recent years Formentera has had a quiet makeover with a handful of stylish addresses bringing a new energy to the island. Here’s how to make the most of your next trip.
What to Do
Beach hop
Beaching is naturally Formentera’s calling card. The most popular spot is the narrow 450m long spit that looks out towards Ibiza framed with silky sand and shallow water on both sides (look for Platja de Ses Illetes and Platja de S'Alga on the map). It’s unusual and beautiful but sees the most day trip traffic from Ibiza. Where the spit meets the main island, the beaches around Sa Roqueta are wilder and a little less busy. On the south side, Calo Des Mort is a charming cove while you always find space at Platja de Migjorn, the 6km soft sand stretch that runs along the south of the island.
Hire a bike or a boat
Thanks to its manageable size, you really don’t need to hire a car in Formentera. Your best bet is a scooter or an old fashioned bicycle. There is an excellent network of cycle lanes (look out for the Circuit Verd signs) and the majority of the island is flat so biking beach to beach is a lovely way to spend the day. Chartering a boat is also an excellent alternative for seeing all the island’s best beaches.
Pilar de la Mola market
Each Wednesday and Sunday throughout the summer, the square in El Pilar de la Mola is transformed into the so-called hippie market. With craft stalls and a live band, the vibe feels reminiscent of eras gone by.
Where to Eat
A Formentera institution, not much beats a hot summer’s evening on Can Carlos’s twinkling terrace. Hidden down a small street in the main town of Sant Fransec Xaiver, the atmosphere here can’t be beaten but the food - an elegant take on Mediterranean classics - is also standout.
Looking out over Platja Migjorn, this is arguably the island’s chicest beach club whether you’re after a sit down lunch or sundowner cocktails. The food is no standard beach club fare - Chef Anuar Gonzales Fasabi hails from Lima and brings Peruvian flavours to the menu that mixes Mediterranean and Japanese dishes. For more of 10punto7 magic, check out their equally excellent sister restaurant, Chiringuito Manolito.
A large percentage of Formentera’s restaurants are Italian run and you’re never too far from a good pizza. Case in point: Macondo in Sant Ferran. At this always-busy spot, crowds fill the rows of red streetside benches as the crispy generously topped pizzas fly out the wood fired oven.
Where to Stay
From the team behind much-loved Marbella Club Hotel, this 2023 opening nails barefoot luxury with its 35 room offering on a protected, beachside estate. The elegant and pared back interiors maximise the drystone structure and the island’s heritage is reflected by the use of local materials and a homegrown art collection. Added extras such as electric bike hire and free ferry transfers make things seamless while the extensive wellness program leans into the island’s mystical vibe with yoga classes, sound baths and star gazing.
Much like the name suggests, this 2024 opening is set amidst the sand dunes. On Formentera’s southern coast, this luxurious eco-driven hotel has refined nature-inspired interiors, an infinity pool and direct beach access. Sustainability is front of mind here with solar lighting, a water filter system to avoid bottles and a chemical-free pool.
As beachfront as hotels come, the sparkling Mediterranean is never far from your eye at this 30 bedroom luxury stay in the middle of Migjorn. Glamorous with a bohemian edge, you can enjoy the DJ sets, excellent cocktail list and lively bi-weekly fish barbecue one day and take class with the in-house yogi and paddleboard at sunset the next.
84 Rooms recommends: Unveiling Ibiza's New Wave: Creativity, Cuisine, And Consciousness, and Where To Stay On The Costa Brava.