A Curator's Guide To Siena
From the unforgettable backroad stops to the year's unmissable moments in arts and culture, follow international curator Caspar G Williams’s expert guide.
Embarking on a curator’s Tuscan joyride, where does your journey begin?
The first and foremost stop for any person interested in art in Siena is the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo. This museum is home to the Maestá by Duccio di Buoninsegna, a masterpiece fundamental to understanding the region.
How does Siena’s mediaeval architecture influence contemporary art and design in the city?
Craftsmanship is at the centre of every building one encounters in Siena. Whether it’s the cast iron details and masonry on each palazzo’s facade, the hand painted leather walls of Palazzo Chigi Zondadari, or frescos of Palazzo Pubblico, contemporary design can find inspiration in beauty put to use in function.
Which five museums and exhibitions are unmissable this summer?
No visit to Siena is complete without a visit to the Pinacoteca Nazionale, Santa Maria della Scala, the Cathedral, the Accademia dei Fisiocritici, and one of the many beautiful Museums of each Contrada. C.G.Williams, my gallery, is hosting a solo exhibition of LA-based artist Dan McCleary at the Botanical Gardens of Siena this summer. The show organised in collaboration with IM Residencies features works made during his residency at Frassanelle, a beautiful estate near Padova.
And how about your favourite art-inspired villas to stay?
La Certosa di Maggiano is exquisite, with its interiors by Renzo Mongiardino.
Which local food markets or gourmet shops do you recommend for someone navigating Siena’s culinary artistry?
Morbidi is the most exquisite deli in the centre of town, otherwise Salumeria Salvini a short drive away.
As a seasoned traveler in southern Italy, how does one navigate trains, planes, and automobiles like a local?
- Rent a car! Travel to and from places with independence. Relying too much on trains can be frustrating and take away from holiday fun.
- Don’t be scared of the buses. Siena is well connected to both Florence and Rome by regular bus service. They are faster than the train and always have A/C.
- Keep a taxi number on hand and budget for a mishap. Don’t let these unpredictables jeopardize your precious time.
What annual traditions in Siena are on the radar?
The Palio (each August) is a tradition that is very dear to me, and I try to never miss it. Arrive a day early to catch a glimpse of the trials and feel the excitement in the air.
The morning of, you must make your way to the central square early to secure your spot; this is first come first serve. If you are wrangling a group together, I opt for a balcony reservation that can be made with Il Mangia Viaggi. A word of advice: be respectful of the locals during the festivities. Unlike many historical events, the Palio is not a reenactment but a heartfelt celebration.
When it comes to dining out, where do artists eat?
My go-to spots are Papei and Le Logge, If in doubt, you will find me in either establishment when in town.
And where is the most iconic spot in Siena for Aperitivo?
Undoubtedly Bar Il Palio is on the Campo, overlooking the beautiful square. I always try to get an external table and watch the world go by.
Amateur or master alike, where can one find the best views for a photograph or a painting session?
The Belvederes by San prospero and San Domenico offer beautiful views of the city.
84 Rooms recommends: A Local's Guide To Florence, and Under The Tuscan Sun.